Admiral Natasi Daala project

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Sandra_Daala
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Admiral Natasi Daala project

Post by Sandra_Daala » 16 Apr 2016, 00:43

I have taken my first steps in to a larger world, a world filled with garbadine fabric, home made patterns, sowing machines and thread soooo much thread. I can't belive i choose woodshop class over sewing class (stupid me :( ) oooh well if youtupe could help me grasp the consepts of quantum mechanics i think it can teach me how to make the perfect princess seam to :)

I have already talked about the uniform that i made for the premier for Star wars VII in my introduction to the forum. Although it worked fine for that event and equaly well when i attended the sci-fi convention this spring i was not satisfied with it and it would certainly not pass in the 501:st. I have therefor deconstructed the uniforem in to all it's pieces to start over. What a tedious job that was xD I was half way in to Returne of the jedi befor i was done xD BTW the radio drama is really good, i higly recomend them. :) Anyway my thoughts with this thread is to share with you all the build of the new uniform as seen with my inexperienced eyes. I say inexperienced sins all that i know of sewing will come from this project and the last iteration of the uniforem..... I have no idea why i inclouded that last part other then that i dont want you to think im stupid, im simply learning how to do things as the project progresses.

Ok With the introduction out of the way lets start talking about the project and where i'm at right now. As a base for my tunic pattern i used Butterick B5927, i have heard on the IOC forum that many uses a "civil war pattern" Just looking at some pictures of that patten i think that that is the better choice for anyone making a pattern. To modify my pattern i used the pictures from anovos replica uniform

// http://www.anovos.com/products/star-war ... -pre-order //

If anyone want i can take pictures of the patten and describe in more detaile how i modifyed it. It is a bit daunting at first to draw your own lines and then cut out past the printed lines but In the end I though drawing the pattern was one of the most exiting things on the project so far. So what whent wrong then you might think, well to be honest several things actualy. Having only a week to compleat the project from scrash (love christmas leave <3 ) some major mistakes where made and i will outline them all bellow.

1. Not fuly understand and appreciate the princess seams made the uniforme not fit all that well in the back.

2. Missed to modyfie the neck region/collar on the back pice wich made it way to wide. My fix to this was to take in the top sholder seam, wich only made things worse. Not only did it not fix my collar problem but created a new problem making the holes for the sleaves to small. It was a real mess, this time around i'll take messurments of my neck and rewrite my pattern to ensure that the fit will be good.

3. The code cylinder pockets were some thing of an enigma for me, how the h*** are they made... In the end i opted for not having pockets at all but rather just let the top part extend beneath the bottom part. I have sins then through the IOC forum discoverd how to do it and update those pieces acordingly, Future posts will cover that.

4. And now to the final mistake.... no mistake is the wrong word to diskribe it becaus at the time it what i did was fully intentional. For lack of understanding how to to do the lining of the tunic i began to cut out equal pieces of lining material and sew it on to each individual piece... It was only after i was done with this long and tedious task of doing that to all the pieces i realised that somthing was not right when sewing the pieces together. it did not feel right. Having never befor Reflected over how a lining is sewn in to a jacket i steamd ahead sewing piece after piece on to the Tunic that was taking shape. Then after a while i did take a look at one of my own jackets and first then come to the conclusion that yes i am an idiot xD Not having time to fix it (the dead line coming up) i pushed on. And yeah it was a total mess. Hoewer i have now figured out how i you do the lining so this time it will be nice and neat :)

There is a cople more things like the collars modesty panel and all the seams needs to be thoroughly presed this time. (Vill be much easyer now without the lining xD) Luckely i bought extra fabric thinking that i would messup so i should have enugh fabric left for the new pieces that i need.

Have a wonderfull weekend now everyone :)


http://i66.tinypic.com/28kqxwn.jpg

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sesewest
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Re: Admiral Natasi Daala project

Post by sesewest » 22 Apr 2016, 22:49

Nice to see you are up and going on your costume to join, now making mistakes we all do and the best still do. You always learn new things, and I'm sorry I'm not much of help with fabric. If it was armor, i could probably give some tips. But my biggest tip right now is to join this forum, there you can ask the experts. And get all your questions answered that you have. http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/ E

Every costume that falls in to a certain group has there own forum. Like sithlords have the sithlorddetachment, or clonetrooperdetachment and stormtroopers have the whitearmordetachment. Now there you can find people who have made, or are making the same costume as you.

Also on the 501st legion homepage you can find a reference pic to that costume that you are making and many other costumes. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Cost ... la_officer
Hope this helps a little bit, like i said I'm not good with fabric, not yet anyway. But at least i can point you in to the right direction a little bit more. Have a great weekend, and may the force be with you!

Sandra_Daala
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Re: Admiral Natasi Daala project

Post by Sandra_Daala » 06 May 2016, 21:57

sesewest wrote:Nice to see you are up and going on your costume to join, now making mistakes we all do and the best still do. You always learn new things, and I'm sorry I'm not much of help with fabric. If it was armor, i could probably give some tips. But my biggest tip right now is to join this forum, there you can ask the experts. And get all your questions answered that you have. http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/ E

Every costume that falls in to a certain group has there own forum. Like sithlords have the sithlorddetachment, or clonetrooperdetachment and stormtroopers have the whitearmordetachment. Now there you can find people who have made, or are making the same costume as you.

Also on the 501st legion homepage you can find a reference pic to that costume that you are making and many other costumes. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Cost ... la_officer
Hope this helps a little bit, like i said I'm not good with fabric, not yet anyway. But at least i can point you in to the right direction a little bit more. Have a great weekend, and may the force be with you!
Thanks! :) Yes i have registerd with them to and have goten alot of great tips and hits from them :)

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Re: Admiral Natasi Daala project

Post by sesewest » 06 May 2016, 22:28

Sandra_Daala wrote:
sesewest wrote:Nice to see you are up and going on your costume to join, now making mistakes we all do and the best still do. You always learn new things, and I'm sorry I'm not much of help with fabric. If it was armor, i could probably give some tips. But my biggest tip right now is to join this forum, there you can ask the experts. And get all your questions answered that you have. http://www.imperialofficer.com/forum/ E

Every costume that falls in to a certain group has there own forum. Like sithlords have the sithlorddetachment, or clonetrooperdetachment and stormtroopers have the whitearmordetachment. Now there you can find people who have made, or are making the same costume as you.

Also on the 501st legion homepage you can find a reference pic to that costume that you are making and many other costumes. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Cost ... la_officer
Hope this helps a little bit, like i said I'm not good with fabric, not yet anyway. But at least i can point you in to the right direction a little bit more. Have a great weekend, and may the force be with you!
Thanks! :) Yes i have registerd with them to and have goten alot of great tips and hits from them :)
Excellent, then you are on your way. :)

Sandra_Daala
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Re: Admiral Natasi Daala project

Post by Sandra_Daala » 07 May 2016, 00:03

Hi again, I was hopeing to make more frequent posts with my updates but i have had some computer problems that i have now solved... hopefully. So this will be yet another long post with lots of rambeling ;)

where we last left of i had just compleated the deconstruction of the tunic and was about to redraw my pattern to get some of the detales right. Ok here is the link to my photobucket album \\ http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/Sandr ... %20Uniform \\ now don't go snuping around in my other albums ;) ... ooh nvm i made another acount just for this :) well to see the pictures in the right order set to view oldest first. If you dont want to listen to me ramble on about all the trivial stuff just stick to the picturs i will soon write discriptions on them that will be easy to folow. Now on to the fun part...

As mentiond befor one of the bigest and irreparable problem with my old uniform 1.0 if you will... yeah i will hencforth say 1.0 to the previous uniform and 1.1 to the new one :D... Either way the main problem with 1.0 where that the neck hole where much to large and there where no saving that so i needed to cut out a new back piece and hens also make a new pattern for that piece. The old piece can be seen in the first two pictures, in the folowing pictures you can see that i trace the old pattern on to the new paper wich is a mm-paper wich turnd out to be great, thanks dad! Past me also wanted you to see my pencil some how, I tend to break the tips of my pencils so i like to use 0.9 mm a tip for you all who are like me you could ofcours use softer tips but nothing trumps 0.9 mm. To get the corect radius the neck line i found out that my neck actualy have the exact same circumference as a CD wich i tried to use to draw the neck line, that di not work that well though so i just free handed it even though im terible at that kind of thing.

With the back patten made its off to make the new pocket pattern. As i have said befor in 1.0 ther was actualy no pockets but rather holes. Now pockets are kind of fun, I dont know if it was just me ot if it's something universial but when constructing 1.0 i had no real ide on how i was to make them so in the very first revision i actualy made them in to slits wich did not work out at all. that lead me to just let the top part extend beneath the botom part. The bottom part that i am refering to is actualy the side part that is conected to the yoke half of that pice is the pattern with the nuber 13 in one of the pictures. That could not have been more confusing if i had wanted it to be, sorry, I'll try nubering all the pieces some time. Any way the pockets for 1.1 will be 10cm deap (I'll make my own cylinders so don't worry taht they will be to shalow) and the bottom part, the part below the line, is just a mirroring of the top 10cm of that 13 pattern part. Te side of the pocket will thus be sewn in with the yoke.

Now some how i did not take any pictures drawing the new pattern for the yoke but thats ok it was just the same process as for the back piece. For 1.0 the part that comes up to the sholder on the yoke was made as wide as the part adjacent to it so that the seam would be exactly in the middle, looking at picturs made it clear that the part of the yoke is actualy a bit wider then the adjasent part. So i did change this to besides the neck line tuck.

Now that the patterns where all remade it was time to cut out the pieses in fabric :D Always when im making symetrical pieces i tend to split them down the middle and cut the fabric over a crese. You can ofcours do it the regular way it's just thet i dont trust my self in making the cut symetrical that way :) One thing that is whorth mentioning is that i cut three yoke parts two for the two parts of the uniform and the third i split down the middle. The split parts will go on the outside of each Yoke so that the lineing wont get all the way to the edge. I alsow cut one and a half Yoke of interfacing the whole part is for the outher Yoke and the half for the inner one.

With all the parts cut out i preceded with sewing the pockets to the side parts, mainly becaus i ended up exausting all my neadels neadeling everything to gether. The seams came out soo much better this time, being able to iron them out correctly. Well here is where i was suposed to make a joke about you geting a permanent "tusen nålar" treatment from this jacket, i dont know if thats only a swedish refrence? Either way it wasn't that funny sins i didn't have the arms neadeld yet.

And there you have it, thats all that has happend sins last time, its not that much but i hope i will have the time to work on it soon when summer break starts :D.

ooh yes i almost forgot to mention the pilow with the bra no it xD that was my atempt in to creating a maniken that would reseble me. Turnsout though im not the petit litel lady the pilows didn't mach my body type at all. It looked realy funy thogh :P and i got one good shoot of the back with the princess seams. Instead of the pilows I got the ironmaiden treatment when trying it on to inspekt the fit XD

Thats all! :)

Hugs and take care untill next time!

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